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During
the 1930's a new technique was discovered known as screen
printing. Also named "La Lyonnaise" technique, because of it's
invention in Lyon. "Flat bed" screen printing revolutionised the
textile printing industry. A fine gauze mesh was tightly
stretched onto a frame. (Polyester or polyamide replaced the
gauze in later years). Lacquer was applied in order to block out
the color where it was not wanted, firstly by hand, and then by
photosensitivity. The frame was then placed onto the fabric, and
the dye paste forced through the fine mesh, using a special
implement known as a "squeegee". During the 1950's this process
was mechanised.
In 1962, the rotary screen printing process was launched.
Based on the same principles as "flat bed" screen printing
process, the rotary print uses a nickel cylinder,
micro-perforated, the dye being fed from the inside. The success
was immediate and for a second time in the space of 15 years,
textile printing was revolutionised.
The
progress made during the 19th century in the field of textile
chemistry was surpassed in the 20th. The range of colors
increased, as did their light and colorfast properties. A new
technique appeared in the 1980's; Transfer printing, in which a
high temperature is used to transfer the dyes from paper onto
fabric. Often used for printing a motif onto T shirts, this
technique can also be used when printing onto synthetic fabric.Today's technology favours computer controlled laser
printing, with dyes projected directly onto the cloth.
Throughout
the history of textile printing, the designer has always taken,
at one time or another, his inspiration from past times. The
ancient plant designs created by Indian artists before the birth
of Jesus Christ have never ceased to be re interpreted. Today,
as always, design sources are drawn from history. A new role, in
the form of the "stylist" has been created; Forecasting future
trends, adapting creations to meet market demands, the stylist
is a co-ordinator, whose ideas influence the industrialists in
their choice of end product, somewhere between creation and
tradition.
Les Indiennes
The 18th century
The 19th century
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