The birth of european textile design
The origins of European textile printing can be traced back to India, as long ago as 2000 years before the birth of Jesus Christ. From generation to generation, Indian craftspeople handed down their secrets. Long and complicated processes using mordents, or metallic salts fixed the dye onto the fabric. The luminosity of the Indian color palette was due to the discovery of red from the garance plant, blue from indigo, and yellow, obtained by using
very first decorative textiles using the mordant technique which skillfully uses
metallic salts to fix the colors onto the cloth. Printed onto a lightweight
calico, these decorative panels were brought into Europe at the end of the 16th
The brightness and fastness of the colors, the lightness of the cloth, together with the lively and varied patterns, quickly seduced the European taste for all that was new and exotic.
Commercial relations between Asia and Europe
intensified throughout the 17th Century, and it was due to the foresight of the Portuguese merchants that the Indian calico prints were imported into a Europe, hungry for an alternative to the heavy silks and woolens, or the rough linens of the times. Success was triumphal, and the merchant traders of the "East India Company" flourished.
Designs and marketing strategy
The rich, decorative designs of Indian origin were often elaborated, even totally changed to suit the particular wishes of European clients. This was a deliberate marketing strategy put into action by the East India Company
that gives well defined general instructions for the cre
ation of decorative designs adapted to the european market.
Stylized flowers in two dimensions, undulating stems, natural or
imaginary geometrical vegetals. All these elements create
a ornamental botany with a lot of elegance in graphism and
a real balance of the fast colors. European engraving circulate
all over the world and are used as models. Heraldic figures are
placed on Indian hangings : The various sensibilities ensure the